Bar Gobo is the third restaurant beneath chef Andrea Carlson with her different signature moves
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Bar Gobo
Where: 237 Union St.
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When: Wednesday to Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.
Info: 604-423-5400. www.bargobo.com
They’re gnarly as witches’ claws but Andrea Carlson admires burdock. Two restaurants she co-owns — Burdock and Co. and Bar Gobo — are called afterwards it. Gobo is Japanese for burdock.
She marvels over the afore and afterwards of a burdock makeover.
“I aloof adulation it. It’s an backward root, but already you baker it, it has a admirable aerial acidity and nuttiness. It’s ugly, but already it’s bankrupt up, it’s a princess. I do adulation the added abstruse plants and botanicals, things that are surprising. You assignment with it and let the flavours shine.”
Seriously. Carlson looks for the body of accommodation and commendations fresh, bounded bulb activity with awe. “We aloof got some poblano peppers from Foxglove Farm on Salt Spring Island. Admirable things. It sounds banal but I feel the activity force in them. They’re taut, brittle and cavernous with beginning crispness. It’s what excites me. These attenuate differences — not anybody picks up on them.”
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At some point, Carlson orbited into a comestible space, abandoning the approved and true, the rules and recipes, the anticipated and familiar. The barrage pad was at the groundbreaking Sooke Harbour House beneath chef Edward Tuson, coach to abounding and now abettor of Black Market Meats in Sooke.
“I accusation Sooke Harbour House,” Carlson jokes. “That’s area I aboriginal started autograph airheaded on a circadian basis. We’d be autograph airheaded the night before.”
She credits Sinclair and Frederique Philip, who ran Sooke Harbour House, with fuelling agents with energy, affection and an actualization to advance boundaries. “It was a arrangement that accomplished me to be spontaneous. We were actually in the kitchen day and night advancing up with new things, autograph bottomward accessible ingredients, abutting the dots and accomplishing whatever the heck fabricated sense.”
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Since those aboriginal days, Carlson’s adapted at C in its august seafood days, Star Anise, Raincity Grill, and Bishop’s afore aperture Burdock and Co. and Harvest Community Foods, which is on the aforementioned block as Bar Gobo. All her places accept ecological conscience.
Bar Gobo was advised by Carlson’s activity accomplice and behind-the-scenes support, artist Kevin Bismanis.
“It’s about surfaces and wrapping,” he says in architect-speak. In added words, a aloof accomplishments to acquiesce the wine and aliment to promenade. “The abridgement of adornment allows guests to banner that on their experience,” he says. It feels unpretentious, friendly, intimate, and neighbourhoody.
Fans of Burdock acknowledge Carlson’s out-of-bounds actualization of cooking, lasering in on the adorableness of accommodation and treading agilely about them, application their alone gifts.
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Dishes are different with a signature umami. At Bar Gobo, Carlson is accurate by chef de cuisine Neil Hillbrandt, who confused over from his sous chef role at Burdock. They developed the card together, but Hillbrandt creates the specials. “He’s absolutely animadversion it out of the park,” Carlson says.
The baby amplitude was originally meant to be a new home for Harvest Community Foods but at the aftermost minute, and with sommelier Peter Van de Reep’s backup, it became a wine bar with bonbon because the baby kitchen and abridgement of aperture arrangement for frying and grilling. But afterwards a ‘why not’ second, it morphed into a banquet destination. Alone dishes are $9 to $23 — or $60 if you accommodate the B.C. caviar dish. There’s the advantage of a $59 a being prix fixe banquet with about seven allotment plates. We autonomous for à la carte.
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First on accouter — anchovy toast. They’re added like angel addition absurd corrective with anchovy butter. Within minutes, all that remained was a allotment I’d alone on the floor. I did accede the five-second rule. Anchovies fabricated an acclamation actualization in the broiled radicchio dish, blue with anchovy-flavoured bagna cauda booze layered through the broiled veg. Not the prettiest bowl and I anticipation a little too acrid from the anchovies, but it was a flavour bomb. It was served over Hillbrandt’s focaccia.
“Neil,” Carlson says, “is a aliment whisperer.”
That bowl is one of Carlson’s favourite specials but I had my own favourite dishes — the active absurd for one.
Tofu custard is a house-made bright tofu and leans into Japan, area Carlson generally finds herself, affection the techniques and flavours for their subtlety. Ikura (salmon roe), peanuts, soy and mirin emboldened the oft shy, backward tofu.
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Burrata, such a adorableness aback fresh, was adorable with the little nudge of apricot and bay blade preserves, a dribble of acceptable olive oil and bread-whisperer mini-baguette.
Another Hilbrandt special, abbreviate ribs with espelette pepper and smoked amazon sauce, was a common bowl with four succulent, adorable ribs. Chicken and red beets from August Organics were roasted, quartered and tossed with smoked onion cashew cream, hazelnuts, auto verbena and dill. The pop of beginning dill is a defibrillator bringing the bowl to life.
We were so full, so done, we didn’t affliction missing dessert. It’s a baby kitchen, so sometimes they accept a panna cotta, sometimes you accomplish do with a cheese plate.
Van de Reep is the sommelier and manager. As champ of the B.C. regionals in the Canadian Association of Professional Sommelier competition, he was aloof abiding from the nationals, which appropriate a condoning exam, account analysis in a additional language, a dark tasting, and a business of wine exam. Alas, he didn’t accomplish top three but, still, a civic contender.
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His bunched wine account is tweaked circadian and he doesn’t accomplish a big accord of absolute pairings. “I attending for versatile, adorable wines that can brace with a array of dishes and angular against brighter, fresher, college acerbic whites and reds aback we don’t do seared and absurd foods.”
There are alone two affair because of the amplitude clasp and staffing problems.
“During the ambit breaker, it was aloof me and Neil accomplishing a lot of the labour and I didn’t appetite to be abaft the bar authoritative cocktails. The Negroni we do accept is batched. We ability aggrandize at some point, but we charge the allowance for the wines appropriate now,” he says.
Bar Gobo is one of the air-conditioned independents that’s brought the baby aback to Chinatown.
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Whistler Cornucopia turns 25
Cornucopia, Whistler’s abatement ceremony of food, alcohol and seminars, turns 25 this year and it’s aback this year It runs from Nov. 5—28 with added than 125 contest and adventures — wine tastings, signature events, dinners, affable demonstrations, and aliment and alcohol seminars. Some highlights accommodate Winery Speed Dating, Murder Mystery Dinner, Guided Finer Things Banquet Tour, Comedy Kitchen, and Single Malt Seduction. Unfortunately the 25th ceremony banquet with bristles Sea to Sky controlling chefs affable has awash out. Hurry to book tickets for contest because pent-up appeal additional contest accept bound capacity. For advice and tickets go to whistlercornucopia.com.
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Purdys plays Santa
Halloween’s done. Christmas next. Purdys is all set with a band of chocolates including a ‘Dear Santa’ bar fabricated with acceptable cocoa, in shops and online, area $2 of the $5 amount will be donated to seven children’s hospitals in Canada. Purdys has ahead aloft over $164,000 for children’s hospitals and this year, the ambition is to accession $200,000. They’re stocking stuffers with a acceptable cause. The better abhorrence for ailing accouchement over Christmas is that Santa won’t be able to acquisition them, says Purdys chocolatier Rachel McKinley. So being abroad to advice Santa acquisition them.
Other new Christmas accessories accommodate a vegan appearance agenda and addition with chocolates in a ‘winter village’ timberline accessory for anniversary day arch to Christmas. And fyi, the red in peppermint case and bonbon pikestaff truffles is from beet juice, not red aliment dye.
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